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Monday, 21 December 2009
Friday, 18 December 2009
Pantone to CMYK conversion, the problems + A few tips
Pantone to CMYK conversion (but it doesn't match?)
There has been a long standing problem with matching the industry standard 'Solid Pantone' colour swatches when printing them in a 4 colour process job. A pantone ink colour is a solid ink colour, where as the 4 colour process colour is tints of Cyan, Magenta, Yellow & (K)Black which creates the optical illusion of that colour; and therefore is limited in the range of colours it can reproduce. For example, the 4 colour process system has great difficulty in producing bright orange colours.
Colours and their reproduction has always been a reoccurring issue with printing. There are far too many possible issue to list out here. However, we can point to a few of the obvious problems, and a few solutions, especially from an artwork point of view.
The Pantone Swatches - A long standing colour system for guaranteeing colour consistency.
Unfortunately not, there are some issues. Pantone supply software manufacturers with the relevant cmyk breakdowns of the solid colours. These breakdowns however, are not consistent. There are constant revisions in the specification of colours, and these are passed on with every new version of software. For example, an old version of Quark 3 may well have a different cmyk breakdown for a colour when compared to the same colour in Quark 8! An obvious issue, possibly, but one that isn't always considered. There are further differences in the handling of colours from Photoshop to Illustrator! On top of these issues, there is the introduction of colour profiles which alters the colours within a file to simulate a type of printing-press & paper, an in-depth subject not to be explored here (yet).
Paper - coated, un-coated & the finish will affect colour!
The type and quality of paper the job is produced on, will have a large affect on the final colour. Also, if there are any extra finishes, such as laminates, these will change the colours.
Without writing a volume of manuals and help books, there are few tips you can have in mind to help, or avoid these issues;
Have you got the latest colour books?
It is worth having the suite of latest pantone books, visually they will give you the best idea of how your colour will look (ON SCREEN IS DECEPTIVE!). Despite the cost, they are cheaper than re-prints!
Not all pantone 'solid' colours are reproducible in 4 colour process.
Check you intended colour in an up-to-date Pantone Colour Bridge book. This will show you how different the Solid Pantone Colour will be in 4 colour process, some colours are never going to match when produced in 4 colour (orange 021!!).
Is the paper coated or un-coated?
On top of the reference in the colour bridge book, you can cross reference your colour with the coated and un-coated books. There is a noticeable difference in the colours on different paper types. You may need to adjust your choice of colour for different papers.
Is the final job having a laminate or coating?
If your are having a laminate or coating, this will affect the colour greatly. It is not always possible to predict the result, so be aware.
Do the cmyk break-downs match the up-to-date colour bridge? Is your artwork set-up correctly?
If you have the latest colour bridge book, you can make sure you are creating colours with the right 4 colour breakdown, as the book will give you the correct percentages of cmyk. In particular, if quark or indesign is suggesting the wrong break-down, you can manually change the colour in the file to get the best result.
A good way to check the final artwork, is to check the PDF in acrobat professional. See the tool: advanced > print production > output preview This gives you a tool to check colour breakdowns (and overprinting!).
If you have any further ideas and thoughts, please leave a comment. If you found this post useful, pass it on with the retweet button!
There has been a long standing problem with matching the industry standard 'Solid Pantone' colour swatches when printing them in a 4 colour process job. A pantone ink colour is a solid ink colour, where as the 4 colour process colour is tints of Cyan, Magenta, Yellow & (K)Black which creates the optical illusion of that colour; and therefore is limited in the range of colours it can reproduce. For example, the 4 colour process system has great difficulty in producing bright orange colours.
Colours and their reproduction has always been a reoccurring issue with printing. There are far too many possible issue to list out here. However, we can point to a few of the obvious problems, and a few solutions, especially from an artwork point of view.
The Pantone Swatches - A long standing colour system for guaranteeing colour consistency.
Unfortunately not, there are some issues. Pantone supply software manufacturers with the relevant cmyk breakdowns of the solid colours. These breakdowns however, are not consistent. There are constant revisions in the specification of colours, and these are passed on with every new version of software. For example, an old version of Quark 3 may well have a different cmyk breakdown for a colour when compared to the same colour in Quark 8! An obvious issue, possibly, but one that isn't always considered. There are further differences in the handling of colours from Photoshop to Illustrator! On top of these issues, there is the introduction of colour profiles which alters the colours within a file to simulate a type of printing-press & paper, an in-depth subject not to be explored here (yet).
Paper - coated, un-coated & the finish will affect colour!
The type and quality of paper the job is produced on, will have a large affect on the final colour. Also, if there are any extra finishes, such as laminates, these will change the colours.
Without writing a volume of manuals and help books, there are few tips you can have in mind to help, or avoid these issues;
Have you got the latest colour books?
It is worth having the suite of latest pantone books, visually they will give you the best idea of how your colour will look (ON SCREEN IS DECEPTIVE!). Despite the cost, they are cheaper than re-prints!
Not all pantone 'solid' colours are reproducible in 4 colour process.
Check you intended colour in an up-to-date Pantone Colour Bridge book. This will show you how different the Solid Pantone Colour will be in 4 colour process, some colours are never going to match when produced in 4 colour (orange 021!!).
Is the paper coated or un-coated?
On top of the reference in the colour bridge book, you can cross reference your colour with the coated and un-coated books. There is a noticeable difference in the colours on different paper types. You may need to adjust your choice of colour for different papers.
Is the final job having a laminate or coating?
If your are having a laminate or coating, this will affect the colour greatly. It is not always possible to predict the result, so be aware.
Do the cmyk break-downs match the up-to-date colour bridge? Is your artwork set-up correctly?
If you have the latest colour bridge book, you can make sure you are creating colours with the right 4 colour breakdown, as the book will give you the correct percentages of cmyk. In particular, if quark or indesign is suggesting the wrong break-down, you can manually change the colour in the file to get the best result.
A good way to check the final artwork, is to check the PDF in acrobat professional. See the tool: advanced > print production > output preview This gives you a tool to check colour breakdowns (and overprinting!).
If you have any further ideas and thoughts, please leave a comment. If you found this post useful, pass it on with the retweet button!
Monday, 7 December 2009
Image resolution's for print? (A few pointers)
To put it simply the image resolution affects the quality and size of an image file. There are many confusing 'crossed definitions' in design programmes, some may use ppi (pixels per inch), others use dpi (dots per inch). For litho print and to a lesser extent digital print, an ideal image size would have an effective resolution of 300 dpi @ 100% to ensure no loss in quality.
For example, if you wanted to print an image at A4 size, the file would need to be A4 in size and 300dpi (expressed in pixels as 2480 wide x 3508 high). You can achieve an effective resolution in two ways:
If the 72dpi image has a 'physical size' much greater than the required 'print size', the resolution can be increased to 300dpi by reducing the physical dimensions, usually this is done by resampling the image in a programme like photoshop; and because the number of pixels is high enough to populate the 300dpi image space, this has the least effect on quality. (You will find with most digital camera's they produce large scale 72dpi images which can be reduced in 'physical size' whilst increasing the dpi resolution.)
There is a quick sum that can give you effective resolution of an image:
Finally, your images should be saved in a format which has the least affect on the quality. JPEG compression is known to create artefacts in images, so where possible use a 'lossless' format like TIF's.
For example, if you wanted to print an image at A4 size, the file would need to be A4 in size and 300dpi (expressed in pixels as 2480 wide x 3508 high). You can achieve an effective resolution in two ways:
- You could use an A2 image, with a resolution of 150 dpi, which would be reduced down by 50%, creating an effective resolution of 300 dpi.
- or alternatively, an A6 image at 600dpi, increased by 200% to A4 would also have an effective resolution of 300dpi.
There is a quick sum that can give you effective resolution of an image:
Finally, your images should be saved in a format which has the least affect on the quality. JPEG compression is known to create artefacts in images, so where possible use a 'lossless' format like TIF's.
"If you found this post useful please re-tweet and tell others!"
Tuesday, 1 December 2009
Reduce Costs Without Cracking
A heavy crease, about 3mm wide, is pressed into the board before folding to assist with the prevention of cracking along the fold in papers & boards over the weight of 160gsm. Creasing is especially important if the job is printed over the folded area.
There are various methods in producing the crease, but the two most popular are detailed below.
The most reliable is using a Heidelberg cylinder, which presses the crease into the board. Although you achieve a quality crease and it would be recommended for anything over 250gsm in weight, it is expensive. A die needs to be produced, the sheets run slowly through the machine and there is the separate process of folding.
A Tri-crease can be used as an alternative.
This is an attachment which fits onto the folding machine, allowing a crease and fold to be produced in line and will run as fast as the folding machine. Although a more cost effective process, there are limitations in the weight of material that’s suitable, usually up to 200-250gsm.
So next time you think a job needs creasing... ask yourself,
"Can I get by with a Tri ?"
There are various methods in producing the crease, but the two most popular are detailed below.
The most reliable is using a Heidelberg cylinder, which presses the crease into the board. Although you achieve a quality crease and it would be recommended for anything over 250gsm in weight, it is expensive. A die needs to be produced, the sheets run slowly through the machine and there is the separate process of folding.
A Tri-crease can be used as an alternative.
This is an attachment which fits onto the folding machine, allowing a crease and fold to be produced in line and will run as fast as the folding machine. Although a more cost effective process, there are limitations in the weight of material that’s suitable, usually up to 200-250gsm.
So next time you think a job needs creasing... ask yourself,
"Can I get by with a Tri ?"
Tuesday, 24 November 2009
3 Quick Tips For Getting Print Delivered On Time
1). It sounds simple but check you have the full delivery address (including postcode, telephone number and contact name if possible). Most of the overnight couriers use postcodes these days, so if your shipment is important and time crucial, it’s worth spending the time double checking it’s correct. These can be can be verified for free online at www.royalmail.com/postcodes4free Make sure the address label is securely fixed to the package/s and include a return address, just in case!
2). Use suitable packaging. If you want your shipment to arrive in one piece use sturdy corrugated boxes (minimum of double walled) of the correct size and weight for the content and use bubble wrap. Cramming something into the wrong sized box will end in tears as the box will either split from being overfilled or damage the goods if they are rattling around in a part filled box. Ensure these are securely fixed and sealed with packaging tape.
3). Use the correct courier for the size of the job. We use several different overnight carriers depending on the size of the shipment, we wouldn’t necessarily send an envelope containing a printing proof out with the same company that we would use to send 6 boxes or a pallet. It’s a competitive market use it to your advantage.
p.s. Much to my colleagues disapproval I always try and re-use packaging, it’s good for the environment and saves on costs. It may not look smart, but what does that matter as long as the content is received in perfect condition!
2). Use suitable packaging. If you want your shipment to arrive in one piece use sturdy corrugated boxes (minimum of double walled) of the correct size and weight for the content and use bubble wrap. Cramming something into the wrong sized box will end in tears as the box will either split from being overfilled or damage the goods if they are rattling around in a part filled box. Ensure these are securely fixed and sealed with packaging tape.
3). Use the correct courier for the size of the job. We use several different overnight carriers depending on the size of the shipment, we wouldn’t necessarily send an envelope containing a printing proof out with the same company that we would use to send 6 boxes or a pallet. It’s a competitive market use it to your advantage.
p.s. Much to my colleagues disapproval I always try and re-use packaging, it’s good for the environment and saves on costs. It may not look smart, but what does that matter as long as the content is received in perfect condition!
Wednesday, 18 November 2009
How to achieve a dense black - Litho printing
How to achieve a dense black?
Many contemporary designs use large areas of solid dark colours. Black solid areas in particular, have a tendency to look dull or washed out when printed in 4 colour process, especially on uncoated and matte paper finishes. Generally speaking this is because the black ink used in CMYK (litho process), is less dense, than that used in a single colour 'black only' job.
An underpin works by boosting the black's density with a neutral colour underneath; but without creating an overly large amount of ink on the sheet. For a designer, or an artworker, the easiest option is to create a 'special black' for the areas they want to appear dense and dark.
A 'special black'?
The 'special black' needs to contain the underpin colour and can be easily created in most design packages. The most commonly used underpin is a 40% tint of Cyan. So our custom black needs to be created as a 4 colour process colour with a 4 colour break down of: 40% Cyan, 0% Magenta, 0% Yellow, and 100% Black. See below for a visual
Advantages!
Many contemporary designs use large areas of solid dark colours. Black solid areas in particular, have a tendency to look dull or washed out when printed in 4 colour process, especially on uncoated and matte paper finishes. Generally speaking this is because the black ink used in CMYK (litho process), is less dense, than that used in a single colour 'black only' job.
"The best way to 'achieve a dense black' is by using an underpin; it isn't as complicated to set up as some people may think."The solution is an 'underpin'
An underpin works by boosting the black's density with a neutral colour underneath; but without creating an overly large amount of ink on the sheet. For a designer, or an artworker, the easiest option is to create a 'special black' for the areas they want to appear dense and dark.
A 'special black'?
The 'special black' needs to contain the underpin colour and can be easily created in most design packages. The most commonly used underpin is a 40% tint of Cyan. So our custom black needs to be created as a 4 colour process colour with a 4 colour break down of: 40% Cyan, 0% Magenta, 0% Yellow, and 100% Black. See below for a visual
Advantages!
For an easy way to create a dense black, the use of a 'special black' colour works brilliantly. The main advantage of this method, is to keep the normal process black colour available for any type used in the design (which would look messy with an underpin).
Also, this technique is the most widely used, and litho printers are generally comfortable printing files which use the special black method.
Monday, 19 October 2009
A unique Christmas Card Design
Are you tired of being offered Christmas cards where your logo and company details are simply dropped onto a generic design? Have you had the humiliation of receiving several Christmas cards that share your design?
So you want to be unique, you have a wonderful design but find the cost prohibitive? fret no more!
We can offer you a high quality Christmas card, including envelopes and delivery for nearly half of what you would normally expect to pay.
Simply click on the link
So you want to be unique, you have a wonderful design but find the cost prohibitive? fret no more!
We can offer you a high quality Christmas card, including envelopes and delivery for nearly half of what you would normally expect to pay.
Simply click on the link
Wednesday, 14 October 2009
New easy way to Upload Artwork - no more FTP!
I feel that our lives and those of our clients are going to be a little easier from now on. Uploading large artwork files to ftp sites can be temperamental to say the least. The stress of urgent print jobs is often made worse because the files can't or won't load.
Well all that has changed. All you need to do is log onto the avenue printing website , enter your username and password and then enter the Customer Area page.
The progress bar does what it says so you know exactly when uploading is finished. Once upload is complete, an email is automatically generated and sent to your account manager. Try it! you'll love it!
Once you have used our new Artwork Upload facility we would love to know what you think.
Well all that has changed. All you need to do is log onto the avenue printing website , enter your username and password and then enter the Customer Area page.
The progress bar does what it says so you know exactly when uploading is finished. Once upload is complete, an email is automatically generated and sent to your account manager. Try it! you'll love it!
Once you have used our new Artwork Upload facility we would love to know what you think.
Wednesday, 23 September 2009
Monday, 24 August 2009
An excellent web design resource site!
There are many sites with idea's, resources and tutorials, for graphic designers. However, very few offer the quality of this site. Many freelance designers have blog sites with tips and techniques, but they don't often have the full package of information to be truly useful. I'm not discrediting their usefulness because I have found many useful articles (often via google), that have great ideas, especially work-around tips for web design. But, for a really useful resource, you should check out 'smashing magazine'.
www.smashingmagazine.com
This site is a massive resource of web design information. Without a doubt, it's usefulness is in describable. However, you will need to use the search bar a lot, there's too much to read through.
"Founded in September 2006, Smashing Magazine delivers useful and innovative information to Web designers and developers"
Sunday, 2 August 2009
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